To ride or not to ride? That is the question.
The guidebooks warn or worse, don't mention at all, that it
is dangerous to ride between the northern cloud forest of
Monteverde and La Fortuna. Writers are referring to the hazardous,
steep and slippery "Mirador Trail." Even in the semi-dry
season, the horses often wade chest-deep in mud, making it
dangerous and exhausting for horse and rider.
Travelers are frequently dismayed and shocked by the condition
and treatment of the horses. But some local outfitters, looking
for a fast tourist buck, claim it's the other companies that
mistreat the animals.
Enough said about The Mirador Trail - a safe and scenic
alternative does exist.
To ride "The Lake Trail" with Desafío Expeditions
through the Cordillera de Tilarán from Monteverde to La Fortuna,
or vice-versa, is a safe, unforgettable experience. Actually, you
don't ride all the way - mini-van and boat transport is
included in the trip.
In Santa Elena, at the Monteverde branch of Desafío
Expeditions, personable, helpful Tom Godar itemizes the itinerary
for the following day.
Unannounced, we visited the stables Caballeriza El Rodeo and
were impressed.
Stable owner Franklyn Arce is an accomplished equestrian, and
his affinity with the horses is obvious. He and his staff take
care of 40 sturdy large-flanked American quarter-horses;
steadfast, sure-footed mounts, ideal for experienced and novice
riders.
"They all have regular medical check-ups and special
diets," said Arce confidently.
The Monteverde horses are used for local tours, but those for
the "Lake Trail" live near Lake Arenal. Arce's
weatherbeaten face beamed with delight when my companion, an
ardent horse lover, congratulated him on his well-groomed, healthy
horses and the immaculate condition of the stable.
The next morning, the mini-bus arrived at our hotel punctually
at 8 a.m. The one-and-a-half-hour drive to Río Chiquito to meet
the horses was no problem. The trip along a bumpy dirt road,
amidst verdant green pastoral landscapes and stunning views of the
misty mountains, is spectacular.
I was getting jittery! An inexperienced rider, I wondered if my
request for a quiet, well-behaved horse would be adhered to.
When we arrived at Río Chiquito everything we'd been told
was true, and both horses and saddles were in excellent condition.
With only four riders, the luggage went with us. Larger groups
have it transported by road to Desafío's office in La Fortuna
free of charge.
As heavy rain clouds rolled in, our belongings were stuffed
into waterproof bags and we donned excellent Desafío rain
ponchos. Luckily we wore them only for short spells, and my
photographer's extra under-water camera got put to little use.
Very typical of the weather pattern in the region, the few
heavy rainsqualls disappeared as fast as they materialized, and
were replaced by light misty precipitation or rays of sunshine.
Mounted on Dorado, a well-trained, gentle horse, I overcame my
fear almost immediately as we left at a leisurely pace. Arce kept
a watchful eye on all his riders, allowing only the more
experienced to gallop when it was appropriate.
The flat, wide trail bordered by lush tropical jungle is well
maintained by the Costa Rican Electricity Institute (ICE). It
zigzags along the shore of Lake Arenal, offering bucolic views
reminiscent of the English Lake District.
When the clouds cleared, a breathtaking view of Arenal Volcano
loomed up on the horizon, but was enveloped in cloud again, before
we saw it in its majestic entirety.
After riding for two hours, we stopped in a jungle clearing for
a tropical fruit feast.
"I have seen more birds this morning than I did in the
Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve," said Annette Slettbaak, a
travel writer from Norway. She was thrilled and enthusiastic about
the entire tour.
Re-mounting, we continued for another hour, then bid the horses
farewell. We boarded the boat for a 15-minute trip across the lake
and a 25-minute mini-bus ride to La Fortuna.
I was worried about the horses making the long trip back.
"They stay at a nearby farm and return the next day, or
rest longer and wait for another tour," Arce reassured me.
"The absolute maximum they work is three days a week, even in
the high season."
Owner of Desafío Expeditions Suresh Krishnan and his staff,
including Janet Ellis, who organizes longer horseback tours in
Costa Rica, must be commended for finding a beautiful, safe
alternative to The Mirador Trail. Suitable for all ages and levels
of horsemanship, the entire tour takes five-and-a-half hours and
is booked through the Monteverde or La Fortuna office. Cost is $65
per person.
If you are traveling by car, Desafío will drive it round the
lake to your drop-off destination for $25.
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